It is a great privilege to be situated in a city-epicenter that is merely a sandwich's-worth of gas money away from quality cuts of nature. This is the case for Sydney, Australia native, Luke Hansen. We landed on Luke's video featured above and were instantly fired up over the three local classics that he spotlighted.
Luke tells us about the accessibility and quality of the area he caught on film:
"The three problems are some classic moderates from Sydney. The boulders are generally small outcrops close to the city centre, and are super accessible. Although Sydney bouldering is far from world renowned, the rock quality is very high, and there is a large variety of problems of all grades and styles."
The problems featured in Luke's video are:
- Sharik's Roof | V9/7C: Located in Tambourine Bay and established by Sharik Walker, this SDS (sit-down start) roof problem is a technical transition to an areté. Luke displays some stout knee jamming and crimp crushing up this great looking line.
- Megatron | V10/7C+: Another SDS classic in Tambourine Bay, Megatron is an early-exit variation to a longer line named Optimus Prime. It showcases very positive pocket holds with a mid-problem left hand dyno that a climber needs to stick in order to keep the fire roaring. From the dyno, Luke floats a hyper extended high-right heel hook and flows into a left lip traverse to seal the deal.
- Paul's Roof | V9/7C: Taking us from the northwest-of-Sydney Tambourine Bay to the Southend, Luke tops off his send compilation with this Queen's Park 3-star classic (ratings based on average-user input on www.TheCrag.com). This overhang problem is a strongman's vertical dream. Luke floats past the mid-route swing out for a matched hand hold before cranking hard on a high right heel for a mantle ascent.
Luke has been climbing for five years and got into the sport, first, through sport climbing in the Blue Mountains. He tells us, "[The Blue Mountains] is an enormous area consisting of over 10,000 routes approximately two hours from Sydney."
Eventually the essence of bouldering grew on him:
"At the beginning of last year, I found myself spending more time above bouldering pads, working individual moves. I came to the realization that the bouldering in Sydney is of extremely high quality."
He continues, "I really enjoy the problem solving aspect of bouldering; moves that at first seem impossible gradually become easier. Eventually you are able to link more and more moves together."
For Luke, the relative distance from where he attends University in Sydney to the locale's stout bouldering areas makes honing this craft a no-brainer.
"It’s quite a contrast to be able to leave the hustle of the city, and in under fifteen minutes be in a pristine environment, with the only sounds being that of nature."
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